Baltimore, Maryland
The largest city of Maryland Baltimore is a traditional industrial city and has an old prewar Lithuanian community.
Lithuanian churches of Baltimore
Centrally located gothic revival St. Alphonsus Shrine (114 West Saratoga Street) with its three-stage ~70 m bell tower is one of the most impressive Lithuanian churches in America (and as high as the higherst churches of in Vilnius). Built in 1842-1845, it is also the oldest one - predating even most of the US famous stately buildings.
In the mid-19th century, there were few Lithuanian Americans as serfdom was not yet abolished in the Russian-occupied Lithuania, limiting freedom of migration. So the Shrine has been built by the German community and used to be called "German cathedral" before being sold to burgeoning Lithuanian parish in 1917 when Germans were moving out of the district. The new church expedited Lithuanian settlement and the neighborhood received its "Little Lithuania" nickname.
In 1973, the St. Alphonsus Church was listed in the National Register of Historic Places. In 1995, it was styled a "Shrine". It is famous far beyond the Lithuanian community as one of the church‘s German-era pastors was St. John Neumann, the first American male saint (his room is recreated at the church). Even during the Lithuanian era, St. Alphonsus shrine has been successful at attracting non-Lithuanians as well, using slogans such as „Baltimore powerhouse of prayer“. English and Latin (Tridentine) mass are celebrated here these days (with Lithuanian mass canceled in 2017). Therefore, it is easy to get in the church nearly every day.
The non-Lithuanian origins of the church, however, means that there are quite a few Lithuanian details in its impressive interior. The church‘s right side-chapel has a „Siberian rosary“ created by Lithuanians who were expelled to Siberia by the Russians in the 1940s out of meager possessions they had left: breadcrumbs and their own hair. There is also one Lithuanian stained-glass window in the sacristy. The World War 2 memorial plaque near the church's entrance has a very long list of Baltimore Lithuanians who served the USA in WW2. At the left of the altar, there is a Lithuanian tricolor and St. Casimir among the statues of the saints.
Like the other US downtowns, Baltimore has been affected by white flight; most Lithuanians left for suburbs as well. In 1950, Baltimore had a population of 950 000; in 2010, it was 621 000 (63% Blacks, ~2000 Lithuanians), the crime rates are high, so the St. Alphonsus shrine has fewer parishioners although Lithuanians drive from the suburbs. The massive St. Alphonsus school has been closed (the building still stands in front of the church, though nothing Lithuanian remains there). In total, Maryland has 18 000 Lithuanians.
Before they bought the St. Alphonsus shrine Lithuanians had their parish of St. John the Baptist at 308 N. Paca St. (1905-1916). That parish was later Italian and now replaced by St. Judas shrine.
Even earlier, Lithuanians prayed at what is now the Lloyd Street synagogue (1888-1905). They have acquired it from Jews and then sold it back. Currently, a Jewish museum operates there, but its exposition also includes some information about the building‘s Lithuanian history as well as an illegible Lithuanian-era graffiti on a basement column.
Lithuanian Hall-Museum of Baltimore
After the acquisition of St. Alphonsus shrine, a Lithuanian Hall was opened in the locality for secular events in the year 1921 (until 1968, the building was known solely by its Lithuanian name Lietuvių namai; 851-853 Hollins St.). The Doric design is by Stanislaus Russel and the Lithuanian coat of arms Vytis is proudly hanging above the main entrance and on the top.
Since 1978, the Hall houses a Lithuanian museum (3rd floor), which is now the most interesting place of the building for visitors. There, one may see a replica of a Lithuanian folk home, learn about the folk traditions and Lithuanian history, as well as about the history and life of Lithuanian-Americans: see the items they used in the protests against Soviet occupation, the straw figures early Lithuanian-Americans created from drinking straws (as the grass straws they used for their folk art back home were not readily available in the US cities) and so on. The museum is open by appointment and it is recommended to go there guided by someone who knows what is exhibited as the written explanations are somewhat limited.
Additionally, the three-floored building has an art-nouveau-style 1500-seat events hall (2nd floor) decorated in a very Lithuanian way (with the coat of arms of Lithuanian cities, etc.). The basement has an equally Lithuanian-decorated bar and pool room, open on Fridays only.
Workshops of traditional ethnic arts and crafts (e.g. Easter egg painting) are possible. Lithuanian Hall also houses the Lithuanian National Library. It has been established 1908, merely 4 years after the Lithuanian language was legalized in its Russian-ruled homeland after a 50-year-old ban. This is the oldest ethnic minority library in America. Active entertainment of Baltimore Lithuanians includes an ethnic dance troupe, seniors club, internet radio. Unlike Lithuanian Halls in some other cities which closed down with a decline in attendances, the Baltimore one is successfully attracting non-Lithuanians as well to its hip dancing nights.
On the opposite side of the Lithuanian Hall, there is a Little Lithuania Park named so after the alternative name for the entire district. In its center stands an impressive Lithuanian monumental composition of three crosses: two leaning ones on the side and a straight chapel-post in the center (sculptor Algimantas Grintalis, who served as the Lithuanian museum's director). At their feet is a land art stylized Lithuanian coat of arms.
Historically, Lithuanian Halls were typically run by secular Lithuanians who were less active (or not active) in the churches, but for decades there are no such distinctions.
Frank Zappa statue
Baltimore is the birthplace of the famous 20th-century singer Frank Zappa (1940-1993). Interestingly, 2 years after musician's death (1995) his statue was unveiled in downtown Vilnius (capital of Lithuania) by a group of fans. At the time, Lithuania had just restored independence (in 1990) and was eagerly embracing libertarianism, thus such initiative was not opposed by urban planners. The news about the statue became a US media sensation back then and F. Zappa statue became popular among foreign tourists in Vilnius. In 2008, Vilnius municipality decided to gift a copy of the famous statue to Baltimore where it has been erected on the corner of Conkling Street and Eastern Avenue. Among its sponsors were famous Lithuanians such as the singer Vytautas Kernagis, businessman Hubertas Grušnys and more. The sponsors, including the Vilnius city, are listed on the bottom of the monument.
Johnny Unitas statue
Johnny Unitas (Jonas Jonaitis, 1933-2002) was a Lithuanian-American who is widely considered to have been one the best NFL players ever. A sculpture of him was built near Baltimore stadium, as he represented Baltimore Colts nearly the entire career in 1956-1972.
 
The map
All the Lithuanian locations, described in this article, are marked on this interactive map, made by the "Destination - America" expedition (click the link):
Interactive map of Baltimore Lithuanian sites
 
Destination America expedition diary
In Baltimore, “Destination America” visited the outstanding Lithuanian Hall and Museum, where the museum’s chairman told us incredible stories about the exhibits: a replica of the Kaunas’s freedom statue which Lithuanians used to bring to anti-Soviet protests in Washington, a replica of an entire Lithuanian village hut aimed to teach Americans about Lithuania during the Soviet occupation, and much more. We have also took part in the holy mass at the St. Alphonsus Shrine, which is the oldest Lithuanian church building in the Americas (1845). However, it was constructed by the Germans, although has received Lithuanian detailes since Lithuanians bought it. Compared to places like Pennsylvania, Baltimore may never had that many Lithuanian sites, however, here, what has existed still survives in full glory. By the way, we were led in Baltimore by Aleksandras Radžius, who is a re-enactor of Lithuanian guerilla war of the 1940s-1960s. Augustinas Žemaitis, 2017 10 01. |
Map of Lithuanian heritage in Mid-Atlantic
More info on Lithuanian heritage in Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Washington, DC, Ontario.